SCULPTURE
Galleries

PAINTING
Gallery

IMAGE
Galleries

BONE CARVING
Gallery

LABYRINTH
Pages

INFORMATION
Pages

LINKS






THE WORKSHOP ZONE 

A DUSTY PLACE WHERE STONE BEGINS TO FLOW,
FORMS BEGIN TO GROW,
AND MOMENTS OF MOVEMENT ARE CAPTURED.


The engine room of the whole proccess,  the place where I wonder if the piece is going to look alright, a place seeming eternally bathed in dust,  and none to warm in winter either, although the move back to Nelson certainly helps.
However the whole proccess is pretty straight forward in principal,  draw something, remove the excess bits then smooth up what's left.  Flippant description you might think, BUT the biggest problem anyone is going to have carving stone has nothing to do with the stone itself.  It's head stuff so to speak, the only truly limiting factor, you can change that if you want to.......

head stuff......

The images above and below demonstrate the proccess nicely and in order of events. As a basic principal it helps to draw something,  that's your focus, (a tip, if you use a sealer on your drawing it has a better chance of surviving).  Start by removing the stone that obviously should not be there,  this way at any one point you will have "something" definable to work with, ( but don't let on to anyone what it is, even if you can see it yourself )  Forget what it "should"  look like, it probably won't at first,  but if you consistently remove the   "well that shouldn't be there"  bits, then the work will evolve to creation......... If pushed you can always call it modern art.

A sketch on a piece of paper would be a good idea for many,  even the worst sketch can turn into something quite impressive in 3D. All in all it is just a process of continual refinement so the whole piece develops as a unit.  
The despair begins to fade near the end.........

As you get towards the end and are trying for a bit of flow and finish,  use directional light to highlight the ups and down of it all, sight your work surface against  a background to get a sense of whether  it needs more smoothing or shaping,  look along any surface as this will exaggerate any imperfections by foreshortening them. Be prepared for imperfections, (meditation may help at this point)  The biggest secret of all is probably the old carpenters maxim,  "If you can't hide it, make a feature of it".

If there is something that hasn't gone quite right, exaggerate it a bit (or lot) so it stands out.  I suspect a lot of  modern art works this way. Take the pic's above, the right eye wasn't coming out well even for this piece, so I added more detail to draw attention and get you thinking.....




To summarize:  Draw the outline as accurately as you can,  Make your first cuts to define the basic shape so you have a form to work with by cutting around the outer edge. Then sculpt out the deeper sections to somewhere close to their final depth.  Work the whole
piece, rather than finishing a section at a time. Then just start rounding out a little here and there,  getting progressively finer...............

STONE FINISHES
A whole subject in itself.  In outside use for this softer, more porus, stone  I use one of several treatments depending on the requirements.
  • A water based silicone sealer that repels water yet allows the stone to breathe.  If the work is outside in a cold climate internal water can freeze and blow lumps off the sculpture even with a silicone sealer.
  • An aliphatic resin glue diluted with water to form a relatively tough finish, it soaks right into the stone with discolouring it.
  • Resin glue with a silicone finish
  • Nothing at all if I want the stone to "green-up" and get a live look.

This piece I designed in a very broad sort of way on paper first, then..............



I started hitting it with an axe, albeit a small one, interspersed with a chisel or two...........



and slowly a form developed, inventing it as I went by developing the "feel" of it............



which was dictated in part by the purpose of the piece, a memorial to Charlie.............




THE TOOLS

Tool preference is one of those subjective things,  not unlike one's preference for particular flavours  of icecream.  But I like them all, so if it's got an edge,  I'll use it.  Not everyone agrees with this principal I note,  but I'm sure the true "artiste" will use whatever is at hand,  right or wrong just isn't an issue.

For working most of the stone displayed within this site,  old wood chisels do the job admirably on this soft stone,  cheap as well. Hammers,  just use what fits and doesn't tire you, the harder the stone the heavier the hammer although a lighter wooden mallet serves well with the softer stone. I prefer this for the most, going for speed of the hit rather than weight, to do the job.

A good farriers rasp  or wood rasp is a handy thing for shaping larger flat areas and floating around the big curves.  Compressed air is manna from heaven,  you can run air tools and the like but for my money, the airgun is the most  valuable.  My air supply is a fairly simplistic device made from an old truck compressor mounted on an LPG cylinder for storage.  The rest consists of an old electric motor (It's Neils actually) a couple of pulleys that were floating around the place and I paid money for the hoses.  It works a treat, sounds the part,  (complete with a car muffler to quieten the intake),  looks................ well just like something I threw together, funny that.




Notice that some of the chisels have rounded ends, I've done this because it seems to help prevent excessive stone breakout as well as decreasing the amount of score marks by creating a tapered lead in on the cut.

Also handy for creating curved surfaces when used as a scraper.  I also use the occasional V wood chisels which are  handy for outlining things although my knife is the main tool I use.


Weighty things for getting the point across, a rasp,  my prized knife, (somewhat shorter these days).  It has a laminated steel blade and holds it's edge forever.

The knife is my tool of preference  for most things,  with me being strong of wrist there is little I can't do with it, and that gives a hint or two about the hardness of the stone.
Big hammer is for serious removal, wooden mallet for the more delicate shaping.  The axe didn't quite fit in the picture......

I also cut the big blocks with an old large toothed crosscut saw about 5 foot long.  They even have stone cutting races in this part of the world.....

As well as the above, on my workbench will be an assortment of well used emery cloth,  a multitude of pencil stubs,  a large toothed hand saw,  an empty coffee cup,  and rubble.
It's messy work and you should wear a mask and goggles.....

So there are no great secrets to share.  The GOD of SCULPT demands little more than a token face full of dust from time to time, (unlike the GOD of MECHANIC who always seems to call for blood and crossed threads).

There is not a lot I can say about design either as it never came easy for me.  Some will tell you they are releasing what is already in the stone but I prefer the creator approach.
I decide, so it is.  Those that have done the AVATAR Course will understand what I'm on about.......

THE STONE
 
Used in buildings throughout New Zealand,  both young and old,  and more recently,  a favoured material for sculpting, it has created and enhanced many fine old buildings.

It is a variety of Limestone known in geological circles as "Totora Limestone",  but most commonly as Oamaru Stone. It is quarried from NZ's only limestone quarry producing building stone.

Laid down in the warm seas of 35-40 million years ago it is formed mainly of sand-sized bryozoan fragments containing large numbers of micro fossils and very occassionally larger molluscs,  brachiopods, corals,  and echinoderms.

PARKSIDE QUARRIES have been mining it since 1906 and is renowned for producing fine grained,  even textured stone,  free from joints and impurities,  making it a premier building material. These qualities combined with it's rich cream hues,  make it a superb sculpting stone as many a New Zealand sculptor will tell you.  For the most part,  in my opinion, it is best suited to larger works, the bigger the better,  as it doesn't take fine detail well.  Not that this wee fact stops me from making many small pieces.......